• is in the Century City News with our Eat, Pray, Love Bali tour (in May). Please repost! http://ping.fm/a7JcZ #
  • has had a new article posted on Self-Growth.com Top 10 Reasons to Take a Spiritual Tour: http://ping.fm/TBAGv #
  • As if the airlines PR wasn’t bad enough already: Continental, American expand surcharges; US Air implements, too – http://bit.ly/1KAkzw #cnn #
  • My new article, Top 10 Reasons to Take a Spiritual Tour, was just published on SelfGrowth.com – please share!  http://ping.fm/AZIkM #

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Ramadan, the most important Muslim holiday, is celebrated for the whole month, and it changes almost everything about Cairo.  Ramadan is a time to get closer to God, making self-sacrifices to be awake and aware of your choices, so people fast all day every day during the month of Ramadan.  This means not only no eating, but no drinking (not even a sip of water), no smoking, no sex, and no smoking!  I think the no smoking stricture may be harder on the Egyptians than no sex.

The result of people not eating all day is that, for the most part, everything is closed during daylight hours. With few exceptions in the tourist areas, where the poor waiters and chefs are serving food they cannot eat all day, the stores and restaurants shut down and open all night instead.  At sundown, however, the whole city of Cairo goes crazy.   One night at sundown, we visited the Al-Hussein mosque, which is perhaps the most important mosque outside of Mecca, to experience the real Ramadan.

The mosque is in the heart of the Khan El Khalili market, but this evening, we couldn’t get closer than a half-mile.  It was like a rock concert, with cars everywhere, parked all higgledy-piggledy.  To get a spot, a kid about eighteen hopped up onto our hood and directed us as we drove down a bizarre narrow alley with cars parked so close we had to hold our breath just to pass.  Walking back out of the alley after cramming ourselves into a tiny space, we saw two more “parking attendents’ and the owner of a yellow car rocking the cars in front and in back of him.  Shifting the cars a few inches at a time, the yellow car finally was able to maneuver out of the spot, whereupon it was replaced by another car.

On the street, it was equally chaotic.  At Ramadan, the rich are supposed to feed the poor, and everywhere we looked, shop owners had set up impromptu cafes in the street, which were full of people breaking their fast by gorging on the free food.  Close to the mosque, we passed a covered hall where huge pots and pans were set out on the ground, and people sat around guarding the meal until it was time to eat.

The Al-Hussein mosque was like a fairground, so full of people you could barely move, part church, part circus.  Every vendor stood by a tiny stand hawking religious artifacts, beads, or spangled LED tops that could fly high into the night sky with a simple flick of the wrist.  Leaving our shoes among the hundreds of pairs at the entrance, my girlfriend and I wormed our way through the crush to the woman’s side of the mosque.  We could barely breathe as the undulating mass of women pushed us forward into the doors of the mosque.  But inside, we fared no better, as we literally couldn’t go another step.  Women sat cross-legged everywhere on the floor, knee to knee, chanting and praying and touching the marble wall which contained important relics.  Disappointed and nearly squished, we turned and wriggled our way back out.

The men had a much more enjoyable time.  Obviously a much larger space, the entrance to the men’s side was empty, so my husband and two other travelers left their shoes with us as they strode into the mosque.  Once inside, they were immediately taken under the wing of several Egyptians who, seeing them, announced, “Sit! Pray with us!” This is typical of the Egyptians, who we have found over the years to be welcoming and inclusive in their worship. While we waited for them to come back out, I looked around the main square of the Khan.  Always bustling, tonight it seemed to almost burst at the seams with the friendly, raucous, joyous celebration of the end of the day’s fast.  It may change everything in Cairo, but I was glad to be there on during Ramadan. Outside the Al-Hussein Mosque During Ramadan

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This is the next installment of my book, tentatively titled, “Travels through Egypt.” After visiting the Temple of Sakkhara, we always go to the same restaurant, one of everyone’s favorites on the trip…

In the afternoon, after Sakkhara, we stopped a desert oasis for lunch.  On our way down the steps to the open air restaurant, a tiny crew of musicians and dancers serenaded us with drums and homemade instruments.  On the left, in a covered area about 20 feet square, two women sat on their haunches, busy working fist-sized balls of dough into flat circles.  One by one, they slid the dough a mud brick oven, and pulled it out minutes later.  The layers of dough had parted, and a huge, pita-sized puff emerged.  They smiled and passed it over to those of us watching, and we greedily tore it to bits to share amongst ourselves.  The fresh, hot bread was immensely satisfying, and the women laughed, pleased with our expressions.  They shyly held their hands out for tips, which we gladly gave, then our guide Emil bustled us over to the main restaurant.

It was huge, and would have easily held a hundred or more people at the long tables.  A soda machine leaned against a tent pole at one end, a group of hookas clumped next to it.  The whole establishment was under a big group of tents, and in all the time I have been coming there, we’ve never seen the kitchen.  Our tables, as is often the case when we eat as a group, were already laid with an assortment of Egyptian mezzes, the appetizers so plentiful you could make a meal of them.  Little dishes held hummus (chick pea & tahini dip), baba ghanoush (a dip made of grilled eggplant), tabouli (little granules of cracked wheat with garlic, lemon, parsley and mint), assorted spiced olives, cubed boiled potatoes dressed in oil, a fava bean dip that seems especially popular with Egyptians, and my favorite, fresh white beans cooked al dente, drizzled with olive oil, and topped with chopped onion and parsley.

Everything in Egypt is fresh, and for the most part, macrobiotic.  Especially on the ships, you can see food being brought in that morning that was picked at most the day before, and will be on your table within hours.  The Egyptians eat at least two courses (for those who can afford it); a salad course consisting of these appetizers, and then a meat course, possibly followed by a fish course, with fresh fruit for dessert.  Pork is almost unheard of, and beef not particularly plentiful or popular, with chicken and lamb served everywhere.  After our appetizers were mopped up with plenty of the fresh bread puffs, plates of grilled chicken and lamb took their place, each with a side of local rice, threads of saffron streaking orange through the soft white granules.

The lamb is delicious and seemingly unspiced, the flavor delicate and rich at the same time.  The chicken is tender and perfectly grilled, full of flavor in my mouth.  A few years ago, the Egyptians were convinced to import chickens from Denmark, because they eat so many of them here.  The Danish chickens were larger and fatter, so it was thought they would quickly become more popular than the wiry little chickens so ubiquitous in Egpyt.  But they were practically flavorless, so they never caught on.  Emil talks about a European friend who brought his boy over to play with one of Emil’s sons.  Although the boy was only a year older than Emil’s kid, he was huge in comparison.  But Emil’s small, skinnny boy more than held his own with the big kid, outrunning and outplaying him until the older boy was exhausted.  ”The European boy,” Emil shrugged, “he is like Danish chicken!”  He laughed hard, slapping his knee.  Emil can be weird, but we love him.

http://www.spiritquesttours.com

Spiritual tours and travel are everywhere, it seems.  So how do you know who to travel with? Check out the reasons we believe you should travel with us!

Top 10 reasons to take a spiritual tour with Spirit Quest Tours

1. Make a deeper spiritual connection – whatever your higher power is.

2. Create new habits of meditation, yoga, prayer, journaling, and connection to “all there is”

3. Give yourself the treat of a “trip of a lifetime” – and we really mean that.

4. Get away from your day-to-day distractions so you can focus on the most important thing in your life… YOU

5. Renew your spiritual commitments

6. Visit sites like a pilgrim, not like a tourist – for many people, this can be an incredible difference

7. Get private access to some of the most amazing places in the world

8. Be pampered in a place where you won’t be distracted by daily life

9. See an exotic culture and country, and learn how they worship and live

10. Make life-long friendships with like-minded people

See you on the road, in the air, and often!

http://www.spiritquesttours.com

Most of the guests who come on our trips have never been to Egypt before – hey, some of them have never left their country before!  We want to make everyone comfortable and at ease, but we do always get the same questions in advance of a trip and after ten years, I thought this should be the first thing I address in my brand new blog!

 

1. How safe is it?  Everyone ALWAYS wants to know this one.  The answer is, it’s incredibly safe, and if you’re traveling in one of our groups, it’s even more so!  Our groups are registered as VIPs when we enter the country, so we always have a special escort with us.  If you’re traveling with another group, check with them to see what their procedures are.

The simple statistical fact is that Egypt is a much safer place than the US or any country in Western Europe. Personal crime rates are much lower than in the west, and violent crime directed at tourists is unheard of –  Egypt thrives on tourism – I think it’s the 2nd largest national product these days – so they really don’t want anything happening to you. We ran some stats comparing death by violence in Egypt to those in Washington DC, and you are something like 75 times more likely to be killed while vacationing in our fair capitol.

By far the biggest threat you will face in Egypt is from clever friendly locals who are very adept at getting you to buy souvenirs.

2. What shots/medical preparation do I nee
d?  In a word?  None.  Surprisingly to most people, nothing is required, or even recommended, and after watching hundreds of people vacation there, I don’t think those who went to the doctor stateside fared any better once the trip began.  The one thing you may come down with in Egypt is politely called “Pharoah’s Revenge”.  The bad news?  You probably won’t eat for a day.  The good news?  We were all eating like pigs prior to this, so perhaps it’s not so bad after all.  The thing that knocks out Pharoah’s Revenge is a regionally produced antibiotic – Antinol – which is Egypt’s answer to Cipro, and is available at every pharmacy for $1 a box.  DON’T drink local water, DO drink bottled water, avoid the skins of fresh vegetables, and you’ll be fine.  We do recommend travel insurance, though, in case you get sick before you leave, or something comes up on the trip (even lost luggage).  You can get great quotes through our friends at Squaremouth http://www.squaremouth.com/travel-insurance/index.pl?pid=20129

3. What should I wear? If you’re lucky enough to visit Egypt between November and February, pack a sweater.  You’ll need it – the desert gets chilly at night.  During the day, the temperature will be balmy and comfortable.  Any other time, pack like you’re going to Phoenix or Vegas in August.  It’s a dry heat ;-)  When you travel with Spirit Quest, we make sure to schedule most activities in the morning or evening, so you can siesta by the pool in the afternoon.  Plan to wear natural fabrics – cotton, silk, or linen are best bets.  Yes, you can wear sport clothes designed to wick the sweat off, but breathable fabrics are always my suggestion.  Bring sturdy walking shoes, ones you can get sand or dirt in, unless you plan to stay in your hotel the whole time. If you are lucky enough to take a Nile Cruise (we always include a 4 star cruise on our trips, because it’s a great way to see most of the country while only having to unpack once, and there’s nothing like sailing the Nile for relaxation) you can wear sporty, casual beach-style clothes.  Really dressy resort wear is hardly appropriate anywhere, and besides, once you’re there a few days you will likely buy a floor length caftan (both men and women) called a galabeya.  If you need something fancy, you can always put this on.  For the ladies, bathing suits are normal if there’s a pool where you’re going, but leave the string bikini/thong at home – it is a Muslim country, after all.  Last, if you are planning on visiting any mosques or certain parts of upper Egypt, ladies will need to plan on bringing something that comes at least to the elbow, and no shorts for men or women in those areas.  A note on shopping – it’s wonderful there, especially many outdoor markets where you can bargain, and everything is very cheap.  Many many of our guests end up bringing back an extra suitcase, and you can always pick one up for about $20 US.  

4.  What special things do I need to pack?  One of my favorite things in the world to bring to Egypt is an Evian Mister, an atomizer with a fine mist of Evian water.  You may be able to find it in your local drug store, or else click this link to buy it http://www.spiritquesttours.com/store.html 
Spray a little on your face or head, and your body temp will feel like it’s dropped 10 or 15 degrees.  Yes, you can use it with make-up, but trust me, if you go when it’s hot, you may want to leave your makeup at home, at least the foundation and mascara.  I’ve seen more women travel up the Nile with raccoon eyes because they weren’t willing to adapt – just a suggestion :-)


Other items include your camera (duh, but you would be surprised how many people forget theirs; power adaptors (you need the kind that work in England, no matter what anyone else tells you!); sunblock – the highest SPF you can find, and try a baby sunblock, which usually is the highest, as well as the gentlest; extra batteries (nothing like standing a the Colossus of Memnon bargaining for batteries you could have bought for $3 at home); and oh!  Ladies, don’t forget tampons and pads – they’re available in the pharmacy, too – but only one kind of each, and that may or not be what you’re used to.

5. How do I communicate with home? Internet cafes are plentiful everywhere, especially Cairo, Luxor, and Alexandria.  If you have international calling on your phone, you should be able to use it – AT&T and Sprint both work internationally for sure, but make sure you have the international coverage.  A satellite phone is best if you are certain to need coverage in the middle of the country, like while cruising up the Nile, but for most people these days a cell phone is fine.  But these days cell coverage is extensive. We’ve made calls from the peak of Mount Moses in the Sinai!

Each of the 4 star hotels Spirit Quest Tours stays in offers wireless in all the rooms and internet at the business center.  Just remember there is a 7-10 hour time difference… and you’re on vacation!

6. Here’s a bonus, since you stuck it out to the end… the most important piece of advice I can give you is, learn a few words of Arabic before you go.  Thank you = shokran (show-krahn’); Good morning = saba al khir (sah-bah’ al – khear’); Tea with milk = chai bi laban (shay’ bee la-bahn’)  This means the world to the Egyptians, and they do love Americans.  You will find that even saying “thank you” in Arabic will bring a smile to everyone’s face.  It will make you more than just a traveler; it will allow you to be what you really are by traveling to this foreign country halfway around the world – an ambassador of peace. 

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Spiritual Journey | Confessions of a Cruise Director

News from Spirit Quest Tours: The official blog of "Julie the Cruise Director"